The Bosnian capital has had its fair share of ups and downs over the years, but it’s getting back to normal and becoming a popular tourist destination once again. Here’s how you can see the city without spending a fortune.
Start the day with breakfast at Moricá Han in the old town, a traditional café-restaurant built in the mid-16th century. It’s an amazing setting for a meal, with most of the tables in a cozy courtyard. Try the Turkish tea and Bosnian coffee with your food ($12).
After breakfast, take a stroll around the picturesque Old Town, stopping in at the churches and mosques that dot the neighborhood. Soak up the laid-back atmosphere of the city and enjoy an aimless wander before stopping in at Avlija. It’s up on a hill outside the center, but it’s worth the walk to try traditional Bosnian dishes such as klepe. ($15)
In the afternoon, visit the Tunnel Museum to find out how Bosnians escaped the city during the 1,422-day siege of Sarajevo, from 1992–1995. It’s an important place to understand just how recently the city was being attacked.
After you’ve seen the museum, it’s time to visit one of the most famous landmarks in the city: Inat Kuća. In English, it means House of Spite, to commemorate the stubbornness of an old man who lived on a prime plot looking over the river where the Austro-Hungarian rulers wanted to build a new city hall. He finally gave in on the condition his home would be moved brick by brick across the river, where it remains to this day.
In the evening, have dinner at Kibe Mahala. Bag a table outside so you can watch the sun go down on the city from your vantage point on the hill ($20). Head back down into town for drinks at S One Sky Bar ($5 each) and then a few more at City Pub ($4 each) if the feeling takes you.
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