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The Story of Pulque in Mexico

by Jack Guy

Feb 13, 2018

Guanajuato City, Mexico © Jose Antonio Nicoli | Dreamstime

Trends / History

If you think of alcohol in Mexico the mind wanders to tequila and, perhaps, mezcal. However, there is another drink that predates both of these spirits by at least 1,500 years: pulque. A frothy white drink made from the fermented sap of an agave plant, it’s the oldest alcoholic drink in Mexico.

Under Aztec rule, pulque was reserved for priests and nobles. In the early 20th century, pulque was a working man’s drink, but its popularity dropped sharply from 1950 onward as beer and soft drinks became more popular.

More recently, the drink shot back to fame as hipsters reclaimed and breathed new life into it. These days you’ll find trendy pulquerias in Mexico City and other large cities across the country, with new flavors popping up all the time.

If you’re in Mexico City, head to Las Duelistas, serving pulque since 1912, or head to Pulqueria Insurgentes, a fashionable new spot in the Roma district. Try an original pulque, is slightly sour and slimy, or go for a flavored drink favored by many.

It will get you drunk if you drink lots of it, but pulque also has health benefits. Fans say it can help with digestive issues and even diabetes, among other ailments.

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