Taking the Train in Mumbai

Mumbai’s infamous train system is the cholesterol-clogged lifeblood of the city. With 8 million riders a day and more than 2.6 billion a year, the suburban rail system is the bane of the Mumbai commuter’s existence. But if you’re visiting the city and want to catch a glimpse into the daily life of urban India, a train ride can be quite the adventure.

Mumbai is connected by three main routes, the Western line ending at Churchgate in South Mumbai, and the Central and Harbour lines which end at Chhatrapati Shivaji Station, also known as Victoria Terminus, also a popular site with its Mughal/Gothic Revival architecture built in 1887 for Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. The Western is better maintained and also has quite a few sites to see along the way. Haji Ali is close to Mahalaxmi station, as well as the famous Dhobi Ghat, the open-air laundry service where hundreds of dhobis have been washing the city’s clothes since British rule.

To get a ticket, you can either wait in the long lines for the counter or purchase a coupon booklet to cut the queue and head straight for a coupon validating machine. Trains are divided into various compartments, Ladies (first and second class), General (first and second class) and handicapped riders. Trains can become incredibly crowded and maintenance is spotty so Western visitors will feel most comfortable in a first-class compartment.

Be prepared to push and shove your way onto the train. While riding, beware of pickpockets. Protect yourself by keeping your bag in front on your chest instead of your back. Keep wallets and cell phones out of your back pocket, and if you see something suspicious, find a Railway Policy Force officer for help.