Rio Dulce itself is an ugly one-horse town which sees heavy traffic passing from Guatemala City to the northern regions, but there are some areas of astounding natural beauty just off the main drag.
Castillo de San Felipe de Lara © Stuart456 | Dreamstime
Sun Dog Cafe sits off the main road on a dock popular with yachts, and has become a hub of the expat community. Sailors share tales of the high seas with other travelers on their way to the coast, and it’s a great atmosphere in which to eat a big breakfast ($10). Rent a kayak ($10) at the dock and paddle up to the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara ($4). The Spanish fort was built to ward off pirates trying to raid the galleons moored in Lake Izabal, and remains a popular tourist attraction.
© Priya Patel | Dreamstime
Cross to the other side of the water in your kayak, following the channel through mangrove swamps until you reach Hotel Kangaroo. Enjoy a beer ($2) in the hot tub before settling down for lunch ($8) from the Mexican-inspired menu. After digesting your food looking over the water, explore the mangroves and keep your eyes out for the brightly colored birds.
From here, paddle to Backpackers Hotel and Restaurant to eat ($10) and drink ($3) as you watch the sunset. Stay on as the adjoining disco gets going if you want to party Rio Dulce-style ($20).
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