El Salvador’s bloody civil war ended in 1992 after 12 years of conflict that cost the lives of more than 75,000 civilians.
The right-wing government faced off against leftist guerrillas known as the Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front (FMLN). Under the Reagan administration, the United States provided substantial military aid to the Salvadoran government.
The mountainous region east of the capital of San Salvador had a strong guerrilla presence, but today it is better known for its beautiful, quaint villages and local handicrafts. The so-called “Flower Route” takes in the villages of Juayua, Ataco and Apaneca among others, while the small town of Suchitoto has a strong artistic presence.
Oscar Romero © Franco Folini | Flickr
Along the way, there are multiple opportunities to learn about the history of the civil war and its lasting effects in the region. One particular place of interest is a bar named El Necio in Suchitoto, which is draped in Che Guevara flags and civil war-era memorabilia.
Locals and travelers mix freely, and regular cultural events ensure the historical memory of conflict does not die out. Musicians sing in homage to guerrilla heroes, and locals old enough to remember the war share their tales.
© Alison McKellar | Flickr
There aren’t many places you can hear about massacres and battles over a beer, and you are sure to leave Suchitoto with a new perspective on El Salvador and its current struggles. Many of the problems in Salvadoran society are linked to the war, and it’s worth getting a better idea of where these historical conflicts came from.
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