Quyllur Rit’i: The Star Snow Festival

Every April, the Seven Sisters of the Taurus constellation disappear from the Peruvian sky, only to reappear in June, signaling the coming harvest and a return to order and abundance. The celestial phenomenon also served as a metaphor in ancient Peru’s Pachakuti philosophy. The words pacha (time and space) and kuti (return) refer to a separation of eras, when there is a disturbance in current order, only to see society returned to a golden era, overcoming the oppression of the past.

Like many South American celebrations, the festival has become a syncretism between indigenous culture and Christian traditions. According to Catholic lore, a native Peruvian named Mariano befriended a mestizo boy named Manuel in 1780. Manuel offered Mariano food so he could tend to his herd without returning home. Mariano’s father discovered that their herd had grown, so he rewarded his son with money to buy new clothes. Mariano, thinking about his friend, convinced his father to buy Manuel new clothes since he wore the same outfit everyday.

While shopping in Cusco, Mariano found the only cloth matching Manuel’s clothing was worn by the city’s bishop. Surprised by the request, the church ordered an inquiry into Manuel. As they approached the boy on a rock, they were blinded by his white clothes and bright light, and when he was touched, the boy transformed into a tayanka bush with the body of Christ hanging from it. Thinking he had brought harm to his friend, Mariano died on the spot, and his body was buried under the rock. Natives lit candles before the rock, and protested when the bush was sent to Spain, forcing the church to order a replica, which became known as the Lord of Tayankani, accompanied by a painting of the crucified Christ, the Lord of Quyllur Rit’i.

Today more than 10,000 Catholic devotees and worshipers of the ancient mountain gods make the five-mile journey from Mahuayani to Mt. Qullqipunku to attend this spiritual event. The festival is filled with music, costumes and dancing that goes late into the night. Be warned this is not a trip for the faint of heart. While the festival has begun to attract American and European visitors, this is not a tourist affair and requires some camping experience. If you are in Peru during the month of June, hire a local guide to help navigate up the mountain and explain some of the local lore.