Review: El Santafereno, London

The market in the south London neighborhood of Brixton has been gentrifying rapidly, but El Santafereno still offers an authentic slice of Colombia at an affordable price.

Surrounded by trendy burger joints and Caribbean greengrocers, El Santafereno stands out thanks to its neon-lit interior and no nonsense design. From the outside it looks devoid of any warmth or atmosphere, but step inside and the picture changes dramatically.

Classic cumbia blares from the stereo, and Spanish chatter ebbs and flows. There are young families catching up with older relatives, and hurried workers getting a quick bite in between shifts. It’s a buzzing little place, slightly cramped and noisy but all the better for it.

Assuming you’ve come here to do more than soak up the atmosphere, it’s time to look at the menu. It’s stuffed with Colombian favorites, including the legendary bandeja paisa. Make sure you come in hungry if you plan to take on this gargantuan platter, with its sausage, beef steak, fried pork belly, beans, plantain, corn pancake and salad. It’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s worth taking on the challenge.

For those with smaller appetites, there are a number of chicken, meat and fish dishes, or bar snacks such as buñuelos, cheesy balls usually served with coffee. Come in for a meal, sip on a couple of Aguila beers and get to know some of the vibrant Colombian community of South London.

El Santafereno

60-62 Granville Arcade, Brixton

London SW9 8PR

44 20 7733 0864