Visiting the Tanneries of Marrakech

Moroccan leather is highly prized for its durability and soft texture. Few people, however, see how its made, and for good reason. The tanneries of Marrakech can be a horrific experience for those faint of heart, and quite interesting for those with a strong stomach.

Keep in mind that for many tourists, the tanneries are a scam. Salesmen and “guides” who line the souks will often approach, offering to take you to the tanneries, only to expect an exorbitant “tip” for their services. Seeing the leather-making process might sound fascinating, but the reality is much more pungent. The smell will hit you before you’re inside, but it’s not until you see it you realize what it is.

Blood, excrement and carcasses are everywhere, along with hundreds of skins getting cured and drying in the sun. The tanning practice was perfected centuries ago, much the same as it is today, even operating on guild principles where people are largely born into their profession. The 13 tanneries are split between Arab and Berber craftsmen; the Arab tanneries working on small animals like sheep and the Berbers handling camels and horses.

Remember, one of the common scams is for a guide to claim it’s your lucky day, and that the Berbers are about to leave the city for a religious holiday. If you’re still interested in seeing the tanneries, try to get a price established beforehand, one for the guide and another for the person who shows you around the tanneries. This may or may not help; a person might come back insisting you pay more so use your best bartering skills and negotiate a fair price.