The Chios Easter Rouketopolemos

If your idea of a perfect Easter involves a glazed ham, chocolate bunnies and a whole bunch of plastic grass, Chios might not be for you. However, if explosions and rockets excite you, not to mention a century-long feud, then you’ll love this tiny Greek island.

In the peaceful town of Vrontados, on the idyllic island of Chios, close to the Turkish port Izmir, Easter means one thing: rouketopolemos, or rocket war. At midnight, the town comes alive with tens of thousands of rockets. These are not fireworks; these are missiles aimed at rival churches with the intent of striking the other’s bell tower. The rockets crash into the churches, exploding against the stone walls and occasionally finding their goal and ringing, literally, the church’s bell. Meanwhile, inside each church, mass is being held for the faithful.

Windmills of Chios, Greece © Ctppix | Dreamstime 26661288

In the morning, the two rival churches, St. Mark’s and Panaghia Ereithiani, count to see who has scored more hits. This task is, of course, impossible, so both sides agree that the battle is inconclusive and they will have to have a rematch the following year. Thus, the tradition continues.

Rumor has it the whole ordeal started in the late 19^th century, when the Ottomans occupied the island. The occupiers confiscated the Greeks’ cannons and the Greeks responded with rockets. That’s one origin story anyway.

Whatever the origin actually is, the event has become a local (and increasingly global) phenomenon. More than 60,000 homemade rockets are launched each year in a battle that rages for more than two hours. Errant rockets cause fires all across the town, and residents are on high alert.

There are two good ways to experience the event. One, go to one of the services. Two, climb the nearby mountain to get a bird’s-eye view of the battle. Either way, watch out for stray rockets.