Valpo, as it is known to locals, is a mesmerizing Chilean city of street art which tumbles over a series of hills overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
It’s a spectacular setting, improved further by the welcoming, forward-thinking citizens who have turned Valparaiso into a center for music, art and leftist politics. To pack the most into one day, take a map from the tourist office and follow the route which takes you up into the hills to see Pablo Neruda’s house and a number of the most famous pieces of street art, navigating the narrow streets on foot, in trolley buses and by funicular railway.
After a long day exploring town, it’s time to sample the nightlife. The people of Valparaiso seem to have a distinct affinity for rock music of every kind, and many bars and clubs play host to raucous parties. The best are found in the lower parts of town near the square. Stay away from the seedy port area unless you are looking for the kind of company you have to pay for.
The next day, take a trip around the bay to watch the seals that hang around the fish market. From here you can admire the center of town from a distance, a hodgepodge of colors that draws you back in time and time again.
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