Review: Mercato Metropolitano, London

With the explosion in popularity of new urban retail areas such as Boxpark, it’s no surprise to see Mercato Metropolitano in Elephant & Castle. Home to dozens of different food trucks and bars, the area sits beside the railway tracks in the newly regenerated area of south London. So far, so millennial.

Inside you’ll find everything from Venezuelan arepas to gourmet pizza, along with the usual selection of craft beers and sparkling wines. There is certainly a lot to choose from, and every different palate should be satisfied.

I plumped for a mixed grill from Los Pibes, an Argentinian grill. At $12, it was among the more expensive items on the menu, but the portion was huge and the food of great quality. When it comes to food, you’re more than likely to find something you like.

The main point of this review is to introduce Mercato Metropolitano as a concept. While there is nothing wrong with collecting vendors under one roof, it feels manufactured and lacking in imagination. Imagine a shopping mall for people who Instagram pictures of their food and you’re halfway there.

The food and drink is good, but the whole experience is slightly disconcerting. Convenience might be desirable in certain circumstances, but Mercato Metropolitano is another step in the packaging of culture.

If you want to eat (and Instagram) a meal from an approved collection of food trucks, go ahead. But for those who enjoy discovering restaurants of their own accord, it’s a disappointing experience.

42 Newington Causeway

London SE1 6DR

44 20 7403 0930