Kolkata was the original Indian metropolis, situated on the banks of the Hooghly River as headquarters to the East India Trading Company. Today, it is overshadowed by Delhi for politics and Mumbai for economics, but the former capital of the British Raj has always been known for the arts. While the Bengali Renaissance is said to have ended with the death of poet Rabindranath Tagore in 1941, Kolkata continues to produce a number of artists, writers and film producers loved throughout the country.
The traffic is very congested, but Kolkata’s new metro system is cheap, clean and reliable. The fare is only 5–20 INR, and there’s no extra charge for the air-conditioned trains; if you want a relaxed scenic route through the city, consider hitching a ride on Calcutta Tramways, the only tram service in all of India. A slow-paced heritage tour through the northern and central parts of Kolkata is a great way to see the aging architecture of the British Raj and learn about the city’s past. For a quicker and simpler ride, take one of the many vintage-styled Ambassador taxis or hire an Uber driver.
One of the best places to see Bengali culture is Kumortuli, the traditional potters quarter since the 18th century. While many of the other artisans have been pushed out of northern Kolkata, the potters who use clay from the banks of the Hooghly were able to hold on to their home. The streets here are lined with artisan shops, filled with statues of figures and gods in various states of completion. In the old days, potters were invited into people’s homes to provide a sculpture for the upcoming puja. Today, few of the sculptures are available for sale, as most artists are commissioned ahead of time or have orders to ship overseas. Kumortuli has become famous for their religious statues, especially of the goddess Durga, the most popular deity of Kolkata.
Close out your day with dinner and drinks on Park Street, the city’s longtime party district. There are several clubs and music venues in the area, including Tantra, the oldest nightclub in Kolkata, and Something Else, a bar/restaurant that features live music and open mic sessions every day of the week.
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