Aymara New Year at Tiwanaku, Bolivia

Every year on June 21, the ruins at Tiwanaku play host to a celebration of the Aymara New Year.

Tiwanaku is located just 35 miles from the Bolivian capital, La Paz, on the high altiplano near Lake Titicaca. Aymara New Year coincides with the winter solstice, which marks the beginning of a new planting season for the traditionally agricultural Aymara society. In 2009, the date was controversially made a national holiday by the country’s first indigenous president, Evo Morales.

Tiwanaku, Bolivia © Steven Francis | Dreamstime

Without wishing to delve into the politics, the celebration in itself is spectacular. Make your way on a crowded bus from central La Paz, and the festivities will begin long before you arrive at Tiwanaku itself. The temperature drops as you move onto the altiplano, and can reach the freezing point in the middle of the night, so be sure to bring sufficient clothing.

By the time you pass the numerous police checkpoints and approach Tiwanaku, the scale of the celebration will become clear. Throngs of buses and people clog the road, with many in traditional dress. A nearby hotel provides shelter from the elements, and hosts a raucous party while people wait for the main event.

Aymara Symbols at the Witches Market of La Paz © Jjspring | Dreamstime

Make your way into the ruins themselves before dawn, when the ceremony begins. As the first rays of sun enter the Sun Gate, the Ponce Monolith is illuminated and Bolivian shamans perform ancestral rites. The ceremony is made in honor of Inti, the sun deity, and Pachamama, the Earth mother. Expect to see offerings of coca leaves, alcohol and food, as well as the burning of incense and perhaps a llama sacrifice.

The celebration provides a fascinating window into the culture of the Aymara; just be sure to wrap up against the biting winds so you can enjoy the festivities!