El Chanchullero, Havana, Cuba

Cuba is relatively behind the times when it comes to cooking for those with special dietary requirements, but El Chanchullero is a beacon of hope for vegetarian visitors to Havana.

Tucked away in the Cuban capital’s Old Town, El Chanchullero sits near many of the tourist hot spots which claim to have been frequented by Ernest Hermingway and other famous folk. Instead of competing in this regard, the more bohemian El Chanchullero trades off the fact that Papa wasn’t a customer and staff wear t-shirts which read: “Hemingway nunca estuvo aqui” (Hemingway was never here).

It’s a delightfully irreverent place with humorous posters on the walls and lively young staff. The cocktails are great and will get you in the mood for one of the big platters.

Order to share or go for one of the main meals, with meat options available alongside the vegetarian food. Portions are huge and will soak up those rum cocktails which seem to slip down all too easily.

As tasty as the vegetarian dishes were, the chicken and beef options were also fantastic. If you aren’t a strict vegetarian, order a selection of dishes and share among your group as you work your way through the cocktail menu.

If you want to take a break from the tourist traps of Old Town Havana, El Chanchullero affords a glimpse of an alternative Cuba where no one clings to the memory of Hemingway or a now distant colonial past. At $6 per meal and $2.50 per cocktail, it’s easy to spend hours in this welcoming little joint.

El Chanchullero

457 Teniente Rey

La Habana, Cuba

53 5 276 0938