This small southern Cuban city is a real gem away from the main tourist crowds that made Trinidad almost unbearable in peak season.
Head for breakfast at Casa del Batido, where locals down milkshakes at the bar before going to work. It’s incredibly cheap, healthy food, with a great dose of people watching thrown in for good measure ($3).
After setting yourself up for the day, check out the fascinating Libreria “La Fernandina” to shop for second-hand books, and stop in at the Palacio de Valle to marvel at the kitsch architecture. Stroll along the Malecon and stop in at the Catedral de la Purisima Concepcion to get a flavor of the city.
Head for lunch at Paladar Ache, where the seafood is as tasty as you would expect in a port ($15) and then stop in at the Museo Provincial to escape the afternoon heat ($2). Later, go down to Patio de ARTex, which hosts regular concerts of son, salsa and trova music. It’s open until 2 a.m., so you can stay as long as you like, but after a few mojitos you’ll probably want to eat something.
Bag a balcony table at Dona Nora for a great view while you eat ($20), and then go for a few more cocktails at Teatro Café Terry. This little place puts on live music every night and the atmosphere is hard to beat (mojito $3).
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