Review: Sardo, London

Diners are spoilt for choice in the upscale area of Fitzrovia, but Sardo stands out for its buzzing atmosphere and delicious Sardinian cuisine.

The restaurant was packed on a Friday night, with large groups interspersed with couples out for a romantic meal. Our booking may have been somehow lost in the ether, but the staff gracefully ushered us into the adjoining bar for a complimentary glass of wine while a table was prepared.

An inauspicious start, perhaps, but one that didn’t weigh on the evening. From the talleri di carne, a wooden platter of mixed cured meats, to the mozzarella di bufala con caponatina, buffalo mozzarella with marinated vegetables, the starters were so sublime as to banish any lingering ill-feeling over the lost reservation.

The wine continued to flow, and the other tables seemed to be enjoying their evening just the same as we were. Before long, the main courses appeared, with the battuta d’agnello, grilled filet of lamb, a particular highlight. The Sardinian fregola pasta was another big hit, with the small grains making for a texture more like couscous or risotto than pasta.

The dessert menu may not be a long one, but it touches all of the right bases. We opted for tiramisu and panna cotta over the poached pear, chocolate cake or cheese platter, and both were delicious.

Sardo is the kind of place you’d come to mark a special occasion, rather than for a rushed bite to eat. The staff are well trained, the wine list is extensive and the food is a great introduction to Sardinian cuisine.

Three courses with wine came to $145 for two.

Sardo

45 Grafton Way

Fitzrovia, London W1T 5DQ

44 20 7287 2521