Half-Smoked at Ben’s Chili Bowl

Founded in 1958, Ben Ali’s Chili Bowl is a cultural landmark in Washington D.C., serving their famous half-smokes to everyone from Adam Richman to Barack Obama.

The establishment has also survived through thick and thin thanks to its location on the U Street corridor, formerly known as “Black Broadway” for the jazz clubs frequented by Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald and more, many of whom would stop by Ben’s after a show.

During the 1968 D.C. Riots, Ben’s was one of the few places that stayed open past curfew, on the advice of Stokely Carmichael of the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee. As a fixture in the black community, the restaurant fed both police officers and activists alike while Ben Ali painted “Soul Brother” on the glass to prevent looting.

With the area falling into poverty during the 70s and 80s, Ben’s remained a fixture on U Street before revitalization took hold in the 90s and 2000s. The restaurant has grown every year, opening a sit-down restaurant next door and a second location in Nationals Park.

© Mack Male | Flickr

After hearing so much about Ben’s history, I knew I had to take a trip down to U Street Station. I had already been to a few of U Street’s music venues and the other local favorite, Jumbo Pizza, but somehow I hadn’t gotten around to try D.C.’s signature dish, a half-smoke.

As we approached the iconic yellow sign, it was readily apparent how much the area changed. The police used to conduct drug surveillance operations from the upstairs window, but now you see college kids and businessmen stopping for a bite to eat.

© Mack Male | Flickr

Even Ben Ali’s son has noticed the changing demographics: “You hear comments. Even the white customers. They want to think they’re the only whites who’d been hip enough to go to the Chili Bowl. Now they look around and there are a lot of other whites and they are not so happy about it.”

Ben’s menu is rather extensive with burgers, hot dogs, tuna, cake, pie, eggs for breakfast and even turkey and vegetarian options, but I opted for the classic half-smoke, which is a ¼-pound half-pork, half-beef smoked sausage, topped with mustard, onions and their homemade chili.

Half-Smokes on the Grill © Mack Male | Flickr

While it’s standard diner fare, I found Ben’s lived up to its name, with the sausage perfectly cooked, having a snappy, nicely charred skin and smoky taste, which was complimented well by the spiciness of the chili. The hot pepper flakes in the meat made the sandwich more closely resemble a chorizo sausage than a ballpark frank, and it was definitely not your average chili dog.

My side of fries was nothing to write home about, but I did enjoy a slice of their delicious sweet potato pie. Ben’s Chili Bowl also serves a variety of cakes like strawberry and red velvet, which are baked fresh and delivered each day.

Ben’s Chili Bowl

1213 U Street NW

Washington, DC 20009

202 667 0909