Monteverde Restaurant, Chicago

Pasta. It is a beautiful thing.

There are a lot of ways to do it badly, but, even then, it is good, at least at first. On the other hand, being able to innovate on a classic dish successfully is nearly impossible, but Monteverde, located in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood, manages this at a standard that would surprise even the most stubborn purists.

The concept of the restaurant is small-plate pasta. Now, before you think this is a horrible idea, think again. The menu is organized into four parts: snacks, small plates, typical and atypical pastas, and then main courses. The further down the menu you go, the fewer options there will be from which to choose. The idea is to create a family restaurant without the gimmick of a family theme. People tend to order snacks and have a bite, share a salad and order three small plates of pasta among four people so they can split the Texas redfish or steak as a main dish.

Everything is delicious, but particularly memorable is the hamachi crudo and roasted sea scallops. You will want to try all the pastas, but, if you have to go for just two, take the wok-fried arrabiata and the cacio e pepe. The redfish is beautiful and is light enough you could even try an extra pasta if you are on the fence. The selection of snacks is fine, but not worth taking up stomach space. Save that for dessert and order the warm chocolate ganache tart or the snickerdoodle sundae when it comes back.